Inside Confus 6: Utopia Womens Trend Pannel
Illustrations by Joel Miñana
SHOWS Chanel Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture Collection High Profile
SHOWS N21 Spring Summer 2019 Men’s Fashion Show
EDITORIALS Gucci launches "Gucci Collectors", the campaign for its Fall-Winter 2018 collection
SHOWS HYMSKI Rangers Collection Disco Redux
Sequins as resistance, how about that? At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena responded to the terror of the world by looking to Paris’s discotheques for inspiration, sending out catsuits and minidresses dripping with sequins. The glamour of resistance continued at Balmain, Givenchy, and Halpern. One-Two Punch Why have just one coat when you can have two? That was the question Demna Gvasalia posed at Balenciaga, where he made deft new hybrids. The same thing happened at Alexander Wang, where camisoles married sweatshirts and rhinestone trousers merged with jeans. At Maison Margiela, Sacai, and Helmut Lang, mashedup trenches, jackets, and even bras did double duty, too.
Busting Out The bustier got a decidedly smart makeover on the runways this season. In the hands of designers like Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen and Olivier Theyskens, it became a clarion call to celebrate female sensuality. Let’s go, ladies!
Seeing Other People It’s not me, it’s you—on this season’s best prints, at least. Raf Simons kick-started the trend at Calvin Klein, using Andy Warhol’s photos of Dennis Hopper and Sandra Brant as prints on denim, tanks, and dresses. At Christopher Kane, the designer showcased John Kacere’s lifelike paintings of female derrieres on dresses, while Undercover’s Jun Takahashi partnered with Cindy Sherman to bring her Untitled Film Stills to Paris Fashion Week.
Scuba Squad The days of dainty swimwear are done. Instead, take a page from Rihanna’s playbook and reach for surf-inspired wetsuits and one-pieces that are just as fun as they are functional. As Emporio Armani and Mary Katrantzou prove, a good wetsuit can also double as a sexy top.
Mixed Bouquet Florals for spring got a revelatory makeover at the hands of Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino. Rather than stick with a single print per item, these designers mashed up florals of all strokes into a single garment.
She’s a Rainbow If last spring was the season of the pink dress, this time the color on every designer’s mind was, well, all of them. Thom Browne led the pack with a delightfully multihued tulle blazer, while Dolce & Gabbana worked all the colors of the rainbow into an evening dress with a coordinating corset. It’s a joyous look guaranteed to lift spirits.
Knit, Pearl, Repeat Knits, sexy? You better believe it. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson sent out a maxi dress in delicate pastels so fine it could be considered lingerie. At Jil Sander, Lucie and Luke Meier opted for weightier knits in landscape palettes, while Julie de Libran dotted her body stocking–like dress at Sonia Rykiel with ladylike pearls. Trust us on this, all the arty girls, from Eckhaus Latta fans to Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s Lower East Side babes, will be in clingy knits come April..
Major Blazers You don’t need a complete suit to channel power. Such brands as Gucci, Céline, and Brandon Maxwell proved that a good blazer can dress up anything, jeans and a pleated skirt included. Tom Ford summed it up best at his New York show, when he sent out a barrage of blazers worn with everything from gowns to maillots.
It’s Couture, Sweetie Darling Sometimes, the best antidote for troubled times is to put on your best outfit and just feel fabulous. Designers celebrated the art of dressing this season with sculptural couture shapes. Cast your eye on the super-short poufs at Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent. Now that you see a part of our new volume buy the Hard Copy to see all the features, click here and buy a copy!